In autumn, when the colorful foliage is at its peak, the Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail welcomes visitors, holding a page of history within it. In the autumn of 2026, let's walk along the crimson-stained fortress walls and retrace the time of the Byeongja Horan, the 47-day resistance led by King Injo against the Qing invasion in the winter of 1636. This article is a guide for those who wish to experience the beautiful autumn scenery of Namhansanseong and the history that lies within.
Namhansanseong is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, more than just a hiking trail, but a scene of a tragic history. Especially from mid-October to early November, a renowned period for autumn foliage spots, a simple walk along the fortress wall can be deeply moving. Its proximity to the Seoul metropolitan area makes it suitable for a day trip and significant as a place for historical education. For more information on 2026 autumn foliage in the Seoul vicinity, please check the related page.
The Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail is divided into five courses, allowing you to choose one based on your fitness level and available time. A full circuit takes about 5 hours, but popular shorter courses can be completed in around 1-2 hours.
| Course | Main Route | Distance | Time Required | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Course 1 | Bukmun (North Gate) โ Seomun (West Gate) โ Nammun (South Gate) | 3.8km | Approx. 1 hour | Easiest course with a gentle slope, recommended for beginners |
| Course 2 | Nammun (South Gate) โ Dongmun (East Gate) | 2.9km | Approx. 1 hour | Most popular course, passes Sueojangdae, the command post |
| Course 3 | Temporary Palace โ Dongmun (East Gate) โ Nammun (South Gate) | 5.7km | Approx. 2 hours | Allows viewing of the Temporary Palace and the eastern section of the fortress wall |
| Course 4 | Nammun (South Gate) โ Seomun (West Gate) | 3.8km | Approx. 1.5 hours | Steeper slope, suitable for those wanting a more challenging course |
| Course 5 | Temporary Palace โ Dongmun (East Gate) โ Bukmun (North Gate) | 7.7km | Approx. 3 hours | A comprehensive course covering the core of the fortress wall trail at length |
Memories of the Byeongja Horan are embedded throughout the fortress wall trail. Follow the recommended route and encounter these moments in history.
Namhansanseong Temporary Palace: This was a temporary palace used by the king as a refuge during wartime. It was where King Injo stayed and commanded the 47-day resistance during the Byeongja Horan. Among the temporary palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, it was the only one equipped with both a Jongmyo (Royal Ancestral Shrine) and a Sajik (altars for gods of earth and grain). You can visit before or after touring the fortress to imagine the tense situation of the time. It's also interesting to compare it with Hwaseong Haenggung, part of the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, another representative temporary palace in Gyeonggi-do.
Sueojangdae Command Post: This is the only remaining command post out of the five that were in Namhansanseong. Situated at the highest point with a panoramic view of the entire fortress and surrounding landscape, it is said that King Injo encouraged his troops from here. In the building's second floor, a later king, Yeongjo, is said to have inscribed the words 'Mumangroyok Byeongjajichi (็กๅฟ่่พฑ ไธๅญไนๆฅ),' meaning "Never forget the humiliation and disgrace of the Byeongja Horan," but it is not currently open to the public.
Seomun (West Gate, also Uikmun): On January 30, 1637, this was the gate through which King Injo and the Crown Prince exited the fortress to surrender. Although it was the most vulnerable to defense due to being at the lowest point of the fortress wall, it ironically became the passage for the king's path of humiliation. Its simple appearance, unlike the other ornate gates, evokes the pain of defeat.
Understanding the Byeongja Horan (1636-1637) will enrich your visit to Namhansanseong. In December 1636, when the Qing Dynasty invaded Joseon with an army of 120,000, King Injo fled to Namhansanseong and resisted for 47 days.
Inside the fortress, there were only about 13,000 soldiers and enough food for 50 days. Amidst the harsh cold, starvation, and constant pressure from the Qing, the court was fiercely divided between the pro-appeasement faction, which argued for surrender, and the anti-war faction, which advocated fighting to the end. Ultimately, with Ganghwa Island also falling and all external support cut off, King Injo opened the fortress gates and suffered the humiliation of performing the "three kneelings and nine kowtows" submission ceremony to the Qing Taizong emperor at Samjeondo. As such, Namhansanseong is a space engraved with a history of both resistance and defeat, of humiliation.
Q. When is the autumn foliage at Namhansanseong most beautiful? A. For 2026, the autumn foliage is expected to peak from mid-October to early November. During this period, it can be crowded with hikers and visitors, so visiting on a weekday might be more relaxing.
Q. What is the most convenient way to get there by public transportation? A. The most common method is to take subway line 8 to Sanseong Station, exit 2, and then take bus number 9 or 52 from the bus stop to the last stop (Namhansanseong Rotary). Be careful not to get confused by 'Namhansanseong Station,' which, despite its name, is far from the fortress.
Q. Could you recommend a good fortress wall trail course for beginners? A. I recommend Course 1 (BukmunโSeomunโNammun). It is about 3.8km long, takes about an hour, and has a gentle slope, making it an easy walk for people of all ages. It is more than enough to experience the charm of the fortress wall trail.
Q. Can I visit the Namhansanseong Temporary Palace anytime? A. No. It is closed every Monday, and operating hours vary by season. It is open from 10 AM to 6 PM during the summer season (Apr-Oct) and until 5 PM during the winter season (Nov-Mar), so it's best to check the hours before your visit.